A day in Sahara at Merzouga

Sahara at Merzouga, Morocco

Dawn - Erg Chebbi dune ridges

Long cool shadows cross the fine ridges while the desert wind shifts the sand under my feet. I wander the sweeping slopes of Erg Chebbi in the early light. Morning and late afternoon are the best times, when the sand stays cool and the shadows carve patterns on the golden slopes.

Morning - Dayat Srji salt lake

Shallow water spreads along the western edge, and flocks of birds move through the mineral-rich shallows. I pause at the lake's edge and watch the greater flamingos. This seasonal wetland fills after occasional winter rains, when the conditions are right.

Midday - Traditional caravan paths

A trained camel carries me slowly along the traditional caravan path, with a wide view to the horizon. I ride with an experienced local guide across the undulating dunes. These excursions can continue to a remote desert camp for the night.

Afternoon - Khamlia communal houses

Castanets click and large skin drums beat out Gnawa rhythm beside the communal house. I sit with the others while the musicians gather. This small settlement near the southern fringe is traditionally home to descendants of former sub-Saharan musicians and slaves.

Afternoon - Rissani spice stalls

Spice hangs in the air beside the stalls of the bustling souk. I eat a Berber tagine of meat and vegetables cooked slowly in a conical earthenware pot. Rissani's traditional market is known for these spice stalls and for its livestock auction.

Afternoon - Rissani livestock auction

Voices carry across the open market as the livestock auction draws a lively crowd. I watch it from the edge. Rissani's traditional souk is renowned for this auction, and the earthen remains of ancient Sijilmassa lie just outside the town.

Afternoon - Sijilmassa earthen ruins

The dry earthen ground feels warm underfoot among the scattered ruins just outside town. I wander what remains of ancient Sijilmassa on the open ground. This place was once a mighty medieval trading capital that commanded the desert caravan routes.

Golden Hour - Southern dune fringe

Loose cotton of the djellaba moves in the wind and the late light warms the southern fringe. I wear the robe as I look across the dunes. Flowing garments like this shield the skin from blistering sun, biting winds and blowing sand.

Golden Hour - Golden sand horizon

Wind-sculpted ridges run on toward the horizon, and the sand is still cool under my feet. I cross the sea of golden sand in the late afternoon light. October through April brings milder days, the best months for treks and desert excursions.

Night - Khamlia village

Cold night air moves between the houses of this small settlement near the dunes. I cross Khamlia after the gathering in the communal house. A long scarf called a shechachia wraps the head and face to block glare and airborne sand.