A day in Shwedagon Pagoda

Shwedagon Pagoda, Myanmar

Dawn - Open hill above Yangon

The cold air is still sharp, and the stupa's gold is turning pale yellow as the first light touches it. I climb up to the open hill to see it before the crowds arrive. Shwedagon is Myanmar's most sacred Buddhist shrine, and its towering gold monument dominates the Yangon skyline.

Morning - Eastern covered stairway

Candle sellers call out from small stalls, and the smell of burning incense drifts up the covered stairs. I climb the eastern stair, where lotus blossoms, prayer beads and thin sheets of hammered gold leaf are sold beside the candles. Four covered stairways reach the hilltop from the cardinal directions, shielding me from the tropical sun.

Morning - Guardian chinthe gate

Huge chinthes guard this gate, their faces fierce and their carved ornaments elaborate. Here the noisy city streets end and the sacred hill begins, so I slow my steps. There are guardians at all four main entrances, and I pass beneath this one into the sacred realm above.

Midday - Grand stupa terrace

Pilgrims move around me across the vast terrace, and monks chant quietly in the warm breeze. I follow them, offering flowers, burning incense and pouring water at a designated shrine. This terrace is the emotional heart of the complex, so the faithful circle the golden stupa clockwise.

Afternoon - Octagonal day shrines

Around the octagonal base of the stupa, shrines are set for each day of the astrological calendar. Wednesday is split into two halves, so I find my birth planet before I choose a shrine. I pour water over the animal statue to honour the protective spirits, and the murmur of prayers fills the warm air.

Afternoon - Arakanese prayer pavilion

Ornate wooden pavilion reflects traditions gifted by the coastal communities of Rakhine State. I sit in the shade, away from the busy circling paths, and rest quietly with my eyes closed. Sweet smoke from the incense drifts in, and this shelter is good for meditation and contemplation.

Golden Hour - Northern covered stairway

In my maroon silk longyi, I go down the northern stair as the hill turns gold. Longyis are knotted securely at the waist, and fine silk is chosen for the occasion. Warm light spreads over the stone steps, and the cooling breeze lifts the edge of my silk.

Golden Hour - Yangon skyline terrace

Far below, the Yangon skyline spreads out, and the golden stupa rises above it all. I stand on the open terrace, small against the great gold tower, feeling the wind on my face. Visiting from November to February means pleasant weather with lower humidity and little rain.

Night - Night hilltop terrace

Night has fallen, and the illuminated stupa glows against the dark sky over the open platform. The stone is cooler now, and I walk slowly around the terrace with the last pilgrims. This is the same tower that dominates the Yangon skyline, seen now in its lit glow.