A day in Salar de Uyuni

Salar de Uyuni, Bolivia

Dawn - Sol de Mañana Geyser Basin

Sulphur hangs thick over the steaming vents, and the biting cold stings my cheeks. I wrap my alpaca scarf tighter and step carefully between the bubbling mud pools. Early tours come here in the cold of morning, so I am glad I dressed in layers.

Morning - Salar de Uyuni crust

The white crust crunches under the tyres and the glare makes my eyes water. I sit in the jeep as it drives over the salt, with the horizon running endlessly in every direction. This is the largest salt flat on earth, and from May to September the dry crust is easy to drive across.

Midday - Train Graveyard

Rust flakes off the old steam engines, and the wind smells of dust and iron. I climb onto a rusted boiler and peer along the empty tracks. These historic locomotives lie just outside the main town, silent witnesses to past mining transport failures.

Midday - Uyuni town market

Steam curls up from my bowl and the garlic smell fills the stall. I sit on a plastic stool and spoon up the hot quinoa soup, thickened with native Andean grains, garlic and local vegetables. It is the hearty broth to order against the high-plateau chill.

Afternoon - Colchani salt village

Salt dust settles on my sleeves and the air tastes faintly sharp. I watch a family pack salt blocks by hand, then browse the stalls of handcrafted salt souvenirs. Here local families harvest, iodise and package salt for home use, so it is a working village first.

Afternoon - Isla del Pescado

Rough rock crumbles under my boots, and the fossilised coral is cool to touch. I pick my way between towering cacti, watching the white salt glow all around this rocky outcrop. These ancient cacti grow at a remarkably slow pace, so each one has taken a long time to reach this height.

Golden Hour - Laguna Colorada shore

Red water shimmers under the low sun, and a sharp wind lifts the scent of minerals off the lake. I crouch on the stony shore to watch flamingos feed below the volcanic hills. The red colour comes from specialised microalgae and minerals, which is why this high lake is so striking.