A day in Ellora Caves

Ellora Caves, India

Dawn - Basalt cliffs above Ellora

Cold air bites my fingers as the first grey light touches the black rock. Hiking uphill over loose stones, I feel small beneath the sheer face. Ellora's temples are carved directly from these cliffs, so the rock itself is the monument.

Morning - Kailasanatha Temple gateway

Dust rises gold in the morning sun as my sandals crunch on the path. I head toward the towering gateway, its carved rock looming over the crowd. The entire temple was carved from a single massive piece of basalt, top to bottom.

Morning - Vishvakarma Cave hall

The air inside is cool and still, smelling faintly of damp stone. Before the colossal seated Buddha, I rest my hand on a pillar's base. Locals call this the carpenter's cave, because its vaulted roof imitates wooden ribs.

Midday - Dashavatara Shrine

Noon heat presses on my neck, and shade from the rock is my only relief. I tilt my head back to follow the carvings climbing the double-storeyed shrine. Its upper walls hold fierce, deeply carved scenes of gods and mythic triumphs.

Afternoon - Jain Group of Caves

Cool stone under my palms feels like mercy after the afternoon glare, and my footsteps echo softly. Between the polished pillars, I trace lotus medallions overhead. The northernmost group holds serene seated Tirthankaras, and its refined craftsmanship rewards a slow look.

Golden Hour - Ellora hills ridge

Gold light slides across the dry grass as wind lifts dust off the ridge. I follow the narrow path along the ridge, the valley opening wide below. November to January brings the mildest weather and little rain, unlike the intense heat of April and May.

Golden Hour - Grishneshwar Temple courtyard

Bells and chatter fill the courtyard, and the air smells of incense and warm stone. In my salwar kameez, I join pilgrims moving slowly through the bustling courtyard. Grishneshwar is an active pilgrimage site outside the main park, dedicated to Lord Shiva, so dress modestly.

Golden Hour - Valley beyond the caves

Copper light slides down the cliffs as the sun drops behind them. Sitting on the rock, I watch the valley darken and the air cool. Afterwards I will order sol kadhi, a pink drink of kokum and coconut milk.