A day in Ajanta Caves

Ajanta Caves, India

Dawn - Horseshoe Viewpoint

The cold air bites my fingers as first light slides over the curve of the gorge. I climb the steps across the valley, counting each one until the cave mouths come into view. From up here the whole gorge shows at once, the classic panoramic view of the caves.

Dawn - Hills above the gorge

Wind carries the smell of wet earth across the ridge, the hills rolling away below me in grey and green. I sit on a cold rock and wait for the sky to lighten. The caves lie hidden in the river gorge, so I can only guess at them from up here.

Morning - Cave 10 Inscription Pillar

Cool, damp air rises from the stone as I step into the prayer hall. I bend close to the pillar and read the old records, my small figure against the cliff face. Early visitors left these marks, including nineteenth-century colonial inscriptions that mark the sanctuary's modern rediscovery.

Morning - Cave 1 Principal Vihara

The stone under my hand is smooth and cool as I follow the vihara's facade. The painted panels seem to glow from within the cliff's shadow. Cave 1 is renowned for some of the best-preserved wall paintings in the complex, with elaborate ceiling designs and panels of bodhisattvas.

Midday - Roadside eatery near caves

Mustard seeds sizzle in the pan, and the stall smells of green chillies and fresh coriander. I sit in the shade with a plate of pohe, the gorge and its cliffs rising behind me. Pohe is flattened rice tempered with turmeric and onions, a light, comforting snack.

Afternoon - Cave 9 Chaitya Griha

Afternoon heat presses on my shoulders, but cool shadow spills from the doorway. I pause here, tiny against the rising rock, and look up. Cave 9 is one of the earliest worship halls, and its soaring vaulted ceiling was once framed with timber ribs.

Afternoon - Cliffside path above gorge

A warm breeze carries the scent of dry grass along the cliffside path, and the valley opens wide below me. I stroll slowly, saving my breath for the steps ahead. The cliffside walks are most comfortable from November to February, so that is the best time to come.

Golden Hour - River below the caves

The water turns gold as the low light slants across the river, and I hear its steady chatter over the stones. I crouch at the bank and cup a little water in my hands. The monsoon brings heavy rain from June to September, which is why I came in the cooler months.

Golden Hour - Village street at dusk

Lamps begin to glow along the village lane as the sun sinks, and the air smells of frying onion fritters. I wear my nine-yard saree, draped in the nauvari style that traditionally gave freedom of movement. Kande bhaje are crispy onion fritters made with chickpea flour, best eaten hot with spiced tea.

Night - Gorge under the stars

The dark gorge falls silent except for the river's low murmur far below. Stars spread across the sky above me as I stand at the edge, a small figure in the night. Ajanta preserves some of the greatest masterpieces of ancient Buddhist art, and tonight I carry that home in my notebook.