A day in Seoul

Seoul, South Korea

Morning - Gyeongbokgung Palace

Warm light slips through the tiled roofs onto the timber. I pause at these grand wooden gates and take in the quiet stone. This is Gwanghwamun, the ceremonial front gate of the primary royal palace, with the timber halls behind where Joseon monarchs once governed.

Morning - Palace terrace

Cold stone meets my hands on the railing while the far mountains sit soft in the morning air. I lean here and look out over the palace grounds. Restored stone guard terraces flank Gwanghwamun, the ceremonial front gate, with stately timber halls behind them.

Midday - Palace courtyard

Clear light falls across the paved court and the timber buildings under a blue sky. I cross the courtyard between the halls at an easy pace. Visitors who rent hanbok, traditional dress of lightweight silks and ramie, often have palace admission waived while they stroll these courtyards.

Midday - Palace gardens

Sweet flower scent rises as I step down the palace steps into the gardens. Spring growth is all around me in the mild air. March to May brings this mild spring weather and the cherry blossoms, before the wet July rains and the hot humid August.

Midday - Han River

Bright water carries the sky and the towers as a light wind moves along the path. I follow the walking route beside the river. Hangang Citizen's Park runs alongside the Han across many districts, with cycling paths, grassy picnic lawns, and views of the bridges after dark.

Golden Hour - Street food market

The sweet pastry is warm in my hands as the first neon starts to glow. I hold the snack and eat it among the busy stalls. In historic labyrinthine markets, filled pastries, spicy rice cakes and savoury mung bean pancakes are eaten standing shoulder to shoulder with locals.

Golden Hour - Hanok alley

Long shadows stretch over the cobbles between the small cafes in the low light. I move slowly down this narrow alley as the day cools. Seoul pairs centuries of royal dynasty heritage with an ultra-modern pulse, and quiet courtyards sit beside electric night markets.

Golden Hour - Urban street corner

Pink and orange light sits on the glass above this corner. I look up and watch the colour slide over the buildings. Seoul runs on a relentless ultra-modern pulse, and after dark Hangang Citizen's Park looks out to the illuminated bridges and skyline towers.

Night - Market stall

Lantern light warms the carts and the smell of grilled food hangs in the alley. I look over the street food and wait at the stall. In lively alleyway eateries, Korean barbecue, or gogigui, means marinated beef or pork grilled at the table with lettuce, garlic and fermented soybean paste.

Night - Nightlife district

Coloured light from the storefronts falls across my cardigan in the cool night air. I make my way through this street of glowing shops. Electric night markets match the ultra-modern pulse, and everyday clothes here favour oversized silhouettes, minimalist tailoring and cutting-edge streetwear.