A day in Okinawa

Okinawa, Japan

Midday - secluded cove

Cool water meets my fingers as I bend at the edge of this quiet cove. I let the sea run over my hand and stay a moment longer. Okinawa’s coral reefs, castle ruins and subtropical forests set it apart from mainland Japan.

Midday - Okinawan coastline

Wooden boats rise and fall on the swell while I look out from the coast. I keep my eyes on them and listen to the water against the wood. Cape Manzamo, in Onna village, has limestone cliffs above the East China Sea.

Midday - shallow reef

Salt dries on my lips as I hold the mask and step into the shallow reef. I wade a little deeper and check the strap once more. The Churaumi Aquarium on the northern coast shows whale sharks, manta rays and live coral.

Midday - coastal lagoon

Warm, still water holds me as I float on my back in the lagoon. I look up and let the sea carry me. March to April and October to November bring warm days without the June rain or humid August.

Afternoon - coastal rock

Smooth, sun-warm stone meets my legs while I sit and fix my sarong. I shift the cloth once and settle my legs again. Today locals mostly wear light shirts and breathable trousers in the heat, often a colourful Kariyushi shirt.

Golden Hour - shimmering shore

Low gold light slides over the swells as a fishing boat comes back to shore. I watch it move through the water until it nears the sand. Gōyā chanpurū, bitter melon with tofu, egg and pork, is the island stir-fry to order.

Golden Hour - wet sand

Orange light lies across the wet sand while I follow the shoreline at an easy pace. I keep close to the water as the colour deepens. Okinawan soba uses thick wheat noodles in a clear pork and bonito broth, unlike mainland buckwheat noodles.

Golden Hour - panoramic beach

A sea breeze lifts a curl across my face, so I tuck it back and watch the birds pass. I stay where I am on this wide beach. Rafute is pork belly cooked slowly in awamori, soy sauce and brown sugar until tender.

Night - beach vantage point

The evening breeze is cool on my arms as I stretch them out from this high spot. I breathe in and face the darkening sea. Awamori, made from Thai indica rice and black koji, is best ordered with ice and water.

Night - starry beach

Stars fill the sky above the beach while the island slips into night. I face the horizon and let the dark settle around me. Shuri Castle in Naha holds restored halls of the old Ryukyu Kingdom, a UNESCO site.