A day in Los Angeles

Los Angeles, United States

Midday - Santa Monica beach

Warm sand gives under my feet and the air tastes of salt. I follow the shore with the pier still far ahead. Venice Beach is lively most afternoons and at weekends, and the walk along the Ocean Front is best done slowly, with a drink on the sand before the sun drops.

Midday - Santa Monica beach

Salt wind hits the lifeguard tower and the horizon is a hard bright line. I lean against it and look out. Look for a taco truck with a long queue of locals, and order a few tacos al pastor or carne asada to share.

Midday - Malibu coastline

Cold spray from the rocks lands on my arms as the waves strike. I move along the coast and watch the water. Los Angeles is California's largest city, and it rewards a car, a plan and a willingness to travel between areas.

Midday - Malibu coastline

Tide-pool water is cold around my feet and the rock is rough under me. I sit and let the small waves come close. Olvera Street is liveliest on weekends and during festivals, so a weekday morning gives quieter stalls and an easier look at the older buildings.

Golden Hour - Malibu clifftop

Gold light sits on the ocean below and a warm breeze moves over the cliff. I turn slowly and look down at the water. The view from Griffith Observatory is best in the late afternoon and after dark, and the short steep climb calls for water and proper shoes.

Golden Hour - the beach

The sand cools underfoot as the sun dips toward the horizon. I make my way back onto the beach in the low light. Tamales, churros and aguas frescas are sold from stalls on Olvera Street, and a tamale in its corn husk is an easy, cheap snack.

Golden Hour - the beach

Waves lap at my feet and the last light is warm on my skin. I watch the sun go down over the water. A burger, fries and a thick milkshake are the classic diner order, and Mel's Drive-In in West Hollywood is a well-known example of the style.