Jaipur, day two

Jaipur, India

Midday - Amber Fort

The pillar under my hand is cool in this shaded corridor. I rest my palm on the stone and look along the passage. Amber Fort stands on a hilltop north of Jaipur, and visitors walk the sloping ramparts or take local shuttles to the inner royal apartments.

Midday - artisan stall

Soft light falls on handmade gold bangles in this narrow alley. I stop and look closely along the row. Women traditionally wear silver or lac jewellery with ghagra choli sets or flowing sarees in saffron, pink, and red at weddings and festivals.

Midday - artisan corner

Painted wooden puppets hang in a bright row at this artisan corner. I move slowly past them and take in the colours of the wood. Jaipur keeps a rich legacy of royal Rajasthani craftsmanship beside its grand hill fortresses and pink terracotta façades.

Afternoon - Jaipur bazaar

Spice smell rises as I step into the market street. I pass the stalls and look for something hot to eat. Pyaaz kachori is a crisp fried pastry of spiced onion, best eaten hot with sweet tamarind and spicy mint chutneys.

Golden Hour - palace balcony

Warm light lies across this sandstone balcony. I gaze out towards the horizon above the old city. Hawa Mahal, or the Palace of Winds, is a five-storey screen of pink sandstone built in 1799, with hundreds of small screened windows.

Golden Hour - palace courtyard

Carved steps lead me down into the courtyard in the late light. I take them slowly and look at the decorative doorways. City Palace occupies a central sector of the walled city as a royal residence and museum, and its public halls display historical armour and royal attire.

Golden Hour - Jal Mahal

Still water holds the low golden light in front of the palace. I pause at the edge and look across to the walls. December to February offers dry, sunny days and comfortable cool nights, while March to June turns extremely hot.

Night - Nahargarh Fort

Cool night air touches my face as I climb the stone ramparts. City lights come on across the basin below me. Nahargarh Fort perches on the Aravalli Hills as a defensive stronghold, with long stone ramparts that trace the cliffside.

Night - fort terrace

A clear sky spreads over the high terrace tonight. I stay here a while and look out across the city grid. The elevated position gives panoramic views across the entire Jaipur basin and is a popular spot for viewing sunset.

Night - fort wall

From the ancient wall I watch the city lights spread out below. The stone feels cool under my hands tonight. Nahargarh's interconnected suites were built for royal retreats, and the long ramparts run along the cliff above the city grid.