A day in Cairo

Cairo, Egypt

Midday - Nile temple ruins

Warm stone meets my fingers on these tall columns, and the carved marks feel sharp in the midday light. I trace the old writing with a slow hand. The Grand Egyptian Museum sits near the edge of the plateau and keeps priceless artefacts close to the ancient monuments.

Midday - Desert oasis

Date palms rustle overhead and the air smells dry and sweet as I follow the sandy path. Loose cotton and linen stay the sensible clothes for this heat. May to August bring highs around 45°C, so December to February are the kinder months, with daytime highs of roughly 29 to 35°C.

Midday - Oasis temple pool

Cool water lies beside the reeds, and the stone ruins feel damp under my hand. I move along the pool in the shade of the old walls. Ful mudammas, slow-cooked fava beans with garlic, olive oil, lemon, and cumin, is the warm breakfast served with baladi bread.

Midday - Desert valley

Sharp sandstone cliffs throw a hard shadow across the dry valley floor, and the rock feels hot where the sun hits it. I look up from the sand at the sheer walls. Visitors dress with care here: modest cuts in light cotton show respect in the desert climate.

Golden Hour - Pyramids of Giza

Gold light spreads over the pyramids and warms the stone in front of me. I watch it slide across each face. Koshary, layers of rice, macaroni, lentils, fried onions, garlic vinegar, and tomato salsa, is the hearty bowl to order in a neighbourhood shop.

Golden Hour - Nile riverbank

Soft colour runs along the Nile, and the water sounds low against the bank. I follow the shore while the sun drops. Taameya, falafel of crushed fava beans with a green centre and a crisp crust, is fried fresh to order by street vendors.

Golden Hour - Great Sphinx of Giza

The Sphinx faces the open desert horizon, and the evening air cools on my arms. I pause before it and take in the long stone view. Hawawshi is spiced minced meat with onions, peppers, and chilli, baked inside pockets of baladi dough until crisp at local butchers.

Night - Nile riverbank

Felucca boats sit still on the dark water, and the river smells cool and quiet. I rest on the bank and listen. Om Ali is a sweet bread pudding of pastry or flatbread, milk, cream, nuts, raisins, and coconut, baked until golden in dessert shops.

Night - Oasis near Giza

A thin crescent hangs over the still water, and the distant pyramid shows in the reflection. I sit by the pool and watch the moon. The Mosque of Ibn Tulun, from the ninth century, is one of the oldest congregational mosques, with a rare external spiral minaret.

Night - Giza desert dunes

Cold night air sits on the open dunes, and the Milky Way shines bright overhead. I lie back on the sand and look up. Khan El Khalili, a historic souk, has sold brass lamps, fragrant spices, textiles, and jewellery in its narrow lanes for centuries.