Ceviche

Atacama Desert, Chan Chan, Monte Fitz Roy

What it is

Ceviche is a cold dish of raw fish or shellfish marinated in citrus and seasonings. The juice is usually lemon or lime. The acid turns the flesh opaque and firm, so it looks and feels cooked. It is still raw, though, because acid does not kill germs the way heat does. That is why it is made fresh and eaten right away. In Peru it is the national dish, recognised by UNESCO as part of Peruvian traditional cuisine.

Where it comes from

Many Latin American countries along the Pacific, from Chile to Mexico, count a version of ceviche as their own. Peruvian researchers and archaeological evidence favour a very old coastal origin. The Moche of northern Peru, nearly 2,000 years ago, used the fermented juice of the banana passionfruit, called tumbo. Limes arrived with the Spanish, and the modern style took shape in colonial Peru. Later, Japanese immigrants in Peru shortened the marinating time. Other theories point to Moorish cooking in Spain.

How it is made

The cook cuts raw fish into pieces and marinates it in fresh lemon or sour lime juice. Local chilli goes in, along with sliced onion and chopped cilantro. In Mexico, tomato and avocado may join them. Traditional ceviche sat in the juice for about three hours. The modern style, popular since the 1970s, needs only minutes, about the time it takes to mix, serve and carry it to the table. Because it is raw, it is made fresh and eaten at once.

How it is eaten

Ceviche is often eaten as a starter. As a main dish, it comes with starchy sides that balance the sharp acid. In Peru that means slices of sweet potato and corn. In Ecuador it may be popcorn, toasted corn, fried plantain chunks or thin plantain chips. In Mexico it arrives with corn tostadas, or in a cocktail cup. Many Peruvian cevicherías also serve a small glass of the marinade, called leche de tigre, before the fish.

Where to try it

In Lima, look for a traditional cevichería in the centre. Near Laguna 69, any traditional cevichería or local market will serve it, and traditional eateries across the Cusco region, around Machu Picchu, do too. Guayaquil serves a soupier, sharper version with popcorn or plantain chips. On Holbox, try the small seafood counters near the market. Chile's Atacama Desert has coastal fishing towns near the beaches, where it is made with the morning catch.

Sources

Wikipedia, “Ceviche” (CC BY-SA 4.0): the facts.

Picture 1: photograph (cropped) — Cebiche de corvina.JPG — Picanteria karol, CC BY-SA 4.0.

Picture 2: photograph (cropped) — Fish and seafood for ceviche, Mercado Central, Santiago de Chile.jpg — Uwebart, CC BY-SA 4.0.

Picture 3: photograph (cropped) — Ceviche de salmón.JPG — Santoposmoderno, CC BY-SA 4.0.

Picture 4: photograph (cropped) — Cebiche de salmón con cebolla morada, camarones, cilantro, limón y especias.JPG — Cogollento, CC BY-SA 4.0.

Picture 5: painted from the facts of a photograph — Ceviche Chilien.jpg — Fabian Gutiérrez Cortés, CC BY-SA 4.0.