Kyoto, day two

Kyoto, Japan

Morning - Fushimi Inari shrine

Sunlight falls in thin stripes across the cedar trunks as I pass under the vermilion torii. My hand rests on a wooden pillar while the path climbs behind the shrine. These thousands of gates honour the Shinto deity of agriculture and business.

Morning - Fushimi Inari shrine

Cool morning air clings to the moss on the lanterns around a stone fox. I stop and study the carved messenger set among the small stone altars. Walking these mountain trails means passing the fox messengers behind the main shrine buildings.

Morning - Arashiyama bamboo grove

Long rays of morning light drop between the tall green stalks above me. I tip my head back and follow them through the quiet grove. October and November bring autumn maple foliage, a clear reason to time a visit here.

Morning - Arashiyama bamboo grove

Haze softens the path and the bamboo feels smooth and cool under my fingers. I reach out and let one stalk slide across my palm. March and April are the months for cherry blossom if you plan this walk early.

Morning - Kiyomizu-dera

A light breeze moves my hair on the wooden boardwalk as I look back at the main hall. I stay a moment on the stage built entirely without nails. From Mount Otowa the platform looks over eastern Kyoto and the valley.

Afternoon - Kamo River

Open sky sits over the moving water and the air smells faintly of the river. I watch the current from the bank and let the afternoon pass. August in Kyoto stays hot and humid, so a light summer cotton yukata suits the heat.

Golden Hour - Market corridor

Warm light softens the shop signs while I eat a pickled bite and laugh. I taste the crunch and slight acidity of the vegetables at the stall. Kyo-tsukemono are preserved with salt, rice bran, or sake lees, and Nishiki Market stalls sell many kinds.

Golden Hour - Tea house

Soft light comes through the shoji screens as I bow and step onto the tatami. I greet the host and settle in the quiet room. Artisans still make formal silk kimono for tea ceremonies, with colours matched to the season.

Golden Hour - Tea house

Candlelight reflects on the lacquer table while the green tea warms my hands. I lift the bowl and take a small sip. Matcha is finely ground green tea, and you can sample it in delicate rice cakes at traditional tea stalls.

Golden Hour - Pontocho alley

The wooden wall is rough and weathered under my hand in this narrow alley. I move slowly and keep my palm on the timber as I go. In daily life, people here favour understated, practical clothes in muted neutral tones.