Amalfi Coast, day two

Amalfi Coast, Italy

Morning - Stone archway garden

Purple bougainvillea brushes my fingers under the stone arch, and salt air comes up from the sea behind it. I reach into the flowers for a closer look. This southern Italian shore is known for dramatic cliffs and pastel villages that tumble down to the Tyrrhenian Sea.

Midday - Positano cliffside terrace

Sunlight flashes on the sea below the railing, and warm stone heats my hands. I lean out over the colourful houses stacked up the cliff. Positano's parish church, Santa Maria Assunta, is known at once by its majolica-tiled dome above the beachfront alleys.

Midday - Lemon grove trail

Cool shade and a sharp citrus smell hang under the branches, while sunlight breaks through the leaves onto the path. I pass beneath heavy yellow lemons. Sfusato Amalfitano limoncello is made from these thick-skinned, aromatic lemons, grown on terraced stone gardens from February to October.

Midday - Lemon grove path

The lemon in my palm is cool and heavy, and peel scent fills the shaded path between terracotta pots. I hold a ripe fruit just taken from the tree. Handmade lemon pastries and tarts along this coast are filled with sweet lemon-scented custard or ricotta.

Afternoon - Coastal alleyway stairs

Hard stone meets my feet on the narrow steps, and white walls rise close as the coast opens ahead. I take the flight slowly, one step at a time. Sturdy sandals or trainers are essential here; flip-flops soon leave feet sore on uneven stone.

Afternoon - Seaside promenade

A cool sea breeze pulls at my dress, and waves lap the wall under the stone promenade. I follow the walk with the water beside me. Order alici di Cetara, fresh anchovies in traditional styles, including the amber sauce called colatura di alici.

Golden Hour - Cathedral plaza

Warm sunset light lies across the open stone square and touches the mosaic front of the cathedral. I cross the plaza toward that front in the late light. The Duomo di Amalfi has a striking striped facade and a grand flight of steps.

Golden Hour - Cathedral steps

From the wide stone steps the tower rises overhead, and lemon leaves at the terrace edge give off a sharp scent. I tip my head back to take in the tower. The cathedral complex includes the serene, palm-shaded Chiostro del Paradiso.

Night - Coastline path at dusk

Indigo spreads over the cliff path, and warm lights begin to glow on the distant hillside. I follow the path as night comes on. Come between May and June or September and October for warm, pleasant weather and manageable crowds.

Night - Coastline lookout

Night falls over the lookout, and lights twinkle along the coastline while the straw hat rests in my hand. I pause here and watch the coast go dark. In the hills of Tramonti, Concerto is a dark, aromatic rosolio infused with a secret blend of mountain herbs and spices.